In the 17th century, the usual headgear for female Friends was a black hood over a white linen cap. In time the hood was replaced with the bonnet, the headgear most associated with early Quakers. The best known of the bonnet styles is a "tunnel" bonnet. Coloured black it was worn straight on the head with the lengthened brim framing the face and irreverently known as the "coal scuttle bonnet". Later bonnets had a narrower brim meeting under the chin and with a soft crown, a Quaker version of the fashionable bonnet of the time. Caps were always worn under bonnets.